Isobel Cunningham has published short fiction and poetry. Her book, Northern Compass is available on Amazon. She was born in Wales but Montreal is her adopted home. She speaks French, Modern Greek ( it’s a fun story) and a little Spanish…oh, English too, of course. She welcomes comments on her blog and looks forward to chatting with you over cyber-space.
À fireplace for breakfast! I was determined to visit the newly-opened Joachim Sorolla museum yesterday so, à quick coffee and Google Maps… don’t fail me now!
The walk through the heart of Madrid
was full of protest against the housing situation all over Spain. MariCarmen was an 87 year old woman who died after being evicted from her home. She became the symbol of over- tourism Air BnB conversions and general lack of affordable housing in Spain.
One of the main squares
is full of tents and signs
Less education means easier manipulation
Can’t argue with that!
The Madrid symbol of the bear
quite overcome with the protests. My walk led me on into what I might call a snooty area of town to the museum.
Lovely fountains and classical blocks of flatsStreet flower vendors
When I finally finished my Google pirouettes I found the museum but I am sad to say it was a disappointment. Only one room showed the artist’s actual works
And most of these were hung so high
it was difficult to appreciate them. The main emphasis was on the restoration of the artist’s house with the architectural drawings and letters related to this.
Another of his wonderful works.
On the way I treated myself to a Turkish lunch in one of the many ethnic restaurants of the centre of town
The sky at sunset was lovely
and I spent some time packing to be ready for my flight the next day.
The taxi driver who brought me to the airport certainly knew his business. I had a hard time deciding whether or not to close my eyes at some points!
The breakfast of a brave woman!
Don’t ask me what it was. It tasted good and I could not face one more sandwich of Serano Ham. So Montreal here I come.
Toledo was the capital of Spain before Madrid. It is in a section of the city called the Mancha. Remember Don Quichote and Sancho Panza.
Mancha means dry or arris but the region still produces good cheese, olives and wine.
The city is on a hill in the middle of a plain with a river as a border. At one time Jews, Muslims and Christians lived together in peace with mosques, synagogues and churches standing close to each other.
The city now recognizes
these influences. It is strange to enter à building known as the white synagogue of Santa Maria
No one worships here now.
Toledo is famous for its production of Damascene jewelry and ornamental items.
Why Byzantine images?
No one was able to answer this question. The skill was introduced here by craftsmen ftom Damascus hundreds of years ago.
St Christopher in the cathedralRl Greco’s st Andrew
There is a wonderful art gallery attached to the cathedral.
The ceiling in the gallery
I had a particular wish to visit Toledo because of another happy day trip there years ago. But, as they say “ one cannot step twice into the same river”. However, others were happy to be seeing the sights!
This darling was being pushed around in a baby carriage!
One innovation since my last visit is a set of seven or eight escalators to carry visitors up to the old city.
Google Maps got lost
in this maze of à city and I just got down in time to catch the bus back to Madrid
is “ insane” as she puts it. This is not meant, I’m sure in à critical or derogatory way. But it is pretty over the top.
The monstrance
That is used on the feast of Corpus Christi.
The carvings in the choir
are tremendously ornate and although our excellent guide ( appropriately named Angel) explained a lot – for example that the seats, occupied by members of the choir depict various battles against the Moors.
This is the last one
showing the fall of Cordoba. My petty mind always wonders who does the dusting of these ornate and vast works.
The choir director’s post!
The main altar was behind a locked set of iron-work gates but it was possible to sneak a photo of the enormous retabolo which is pretty overpowering. Toledo was the original capital of Spain and the bishop of the city held great power.
The main altar retabolo
A few times my beloved grandmother’s terse comment when she saw anything religious that she considered excessive came to mind. “It’s a long way from Bethlehem”. She was a very strict Methodist, after all.
Toledo is a tricky city to navigate and I only got back to my bus with 5 minutes to spare. Since I walked over 17 thousand steps in this venerable city, I will show more about it tomorrow. The creature comforts of a hot shower and a good supper are making me sleepy. More to follow.
One of my favorite places in Madrid. Unlike another museum I visited later in the day, no pictures are allowed but just imagine wandering through rooms of medieval art, scores of El Grecos and rooms of Goya. Goya is very dark, of course but Valesques and all those infantas and princes on little pony’s cheered me up. After a quick lunch and à gawk in the Gift Shop, off I went just across the street to the Thyssen-
Birnemisza, not as famous as the Prado but certainly their collection is just as interesting and perhaps better in the modern ( post 1900) era. And… they let you take pictures!
Rembrandt self-portraitÀ modern commentary Old Henry VIII
And the Samaritan Woman
Because my baptism name is Clare
a very dear priest, Fr. John told me that story illustrated my name day.
More New Testament treasures
The Visitation
If you look closely- what do you see?
There is a wonderful collection of Dutch paintings. I just love those 18 century skaters on frozen ponds and rivers.
This museum has a wonderful collection of modern works too like this Edward Hopper
The hotel room
He captures the loneliness of modern life perfectly. Monets, Degas, Manets I had my fill and even Picasso with his Harlequin figure and a surprise Frank Stella ( one of my favorites)
These are among my favourite birds! I don’t really know why but along with crows, I love them. I had been trying to get a good picture of one ever since I came to Spain mid September. Somehow I knew I would see one in the Madrid Botanical Gardens so I made up my mind to trust to Google Maps to get me there from my Hostel.
It seems that Google Maps is just as confused as anyone about the medieval squares and twisty streets of this city.. but… readers, you know me! I persisted and found myself in these lovely gardens.
Autumn is here too
But I was able to walk around in a short-sleeved top and enjoy what was left of the blooms.
Last of the dahlias
Thank goodness my sense of direction is better than Google Maps or I would still be wandering around.
Across the street from
the Botanical Gardens was this wonderful wall of plants. Oh for the climate that allows this!
A beautiful start to my day!
My hostel, where I have stayed before has a very nice rooftop restaurant.
This evening , after à walking tour of old Madrid in the morning and my treck to the Gardens in the afternoon I decided to pick up a light supper in the market and eat in the “ in house” dining room. Then I went upstairs for a watered down red wine “ vino tinto verano” and started talking to a charming Brazilian lady. Barbara is a physician who has decided to practice in Portugal for a while. So, the end of my day was as pleasant as the morning!
Tomorrow… the Prado, as long as Google Maps doesn’t lead me off to the Louvre!
Castille and Leon are so different from green Asturias and Galicia.
Presently checked into “ The Hat”
À really nice hostel in Madrid. The metro was undergoing repairs at the station I wanted but I walked thanks to ( and sometimes cursing ) Google Maps. It is very hot here. Just had a “ vino de verano” which was very refreshing and going out for an evening stroll.
I am booking a day trip to Toledo for one of my days here. one of the options was a zip- line ride but after a little thought I decided against it! I think the El Grecos will be enough of a thrill for me.
right around the inner city serves as a jogging path, à place to walk the dog, à 45 minute stroll above the modern life of a town in Northern Spain.
This image
from the museum of the Roman Walls shows that things were not always so peaceful here!
It seems unbelievable that in the first century CE this great empire was securing their huge territories with this sort of defensive mammoth.
Perhaps to us today, used to superhighways and skyscrapers, it does not seem so impressive but really, when we think how far away Rome is from this town, we have to marvel at the force of will, the resources and the skill needed to build this.
The many fortified towers have long disappeared but the traditional gates in and out of the city still remain, with a few newer ones added over the centuries.
In the museum we saw some of the tools used to build the wall and the towers. Cranes that could swivel to lift heavy stones meant that engineering skill allowed workers to build with a minimum of brute strength.
What, then, do empires achieve? Some would say security, some tyranny, some scientific achievements, some dehumanization.
So many centuries, so much effort, and yet still we wonder
This is when Galician folks show off their costumes and bands. I had never heard of this saint despite a good Catholic upbringing. I think I would have remembered à saint who let à wolf eat the donkey carrying his documents because he was busy praying. As soon as he twigged to what had happened, he made the wolf carry the documents!
The gentleman on the left
Is wearing traditional rain gear made of straw! Some gentlemen even had straw gaiters!
The ladies are showing
Their hand made petticoats and even the kids and doggies got into the act!
He had his kerchiefShe had her doll!
It was a lovely morning session of people showing off their costumes and small bands marching around without too much rhyme or reason!
Amazing how much noise two bagpipes can make!Summer look with broad-brimmed hat!I want a hat like that!It seems “ pulpo ” is the menu de jour!
I am “ welcome agent” in à public hostel in Lugo. This is a pilot project that involves a series of duties that are not particularly well defined. I have a partner and one of our very clearly defined duties is to make sure all the pilgrims ( Camino de Santiago) leave by 8 am. we also have to dispose of the paper sheets and pillow cases before cleaning staff comes in
This morning my partner went down early and reported that everyone was getting ready … except for one fellow who told her he had been locked out ( doors close at 10) and that she was not going to tell him when to get in!
It seems he banged on the door or window late last night and somebody let him in. We gave him some grace time and then it was my turn to go down and sing and clap right beside his bed. He got up and tried arguing with me but as often occurs to me , “ don’t look for logic here’
He left in very bad humor but… ten euros for a bed doesn’t allow much leeway!
Afterwards we went for a lovely walk down by the river
Still blooming in OctoberUnder this graceful bridge
built by the French in the 1890’s
Life on the wallWhat hands made this I wonder.
Another week to go here in Lugo. I must think about a part-time job as a bouncer in Montreal when I get home!
It threatens rain today which will be a shame as the festival of San Froilan ( look him up!) is taking place
We have coffee under this everyday!
It is not a grand as it seems in this little cafe but they milk the Roman connection for all it’s worth!
Not the place for a tipsy walk home! Yesterday at the festival
The streets were full of people and the noise was a bit intrusive but , hey, what’s a festival parade without a tuba and bagpipes! Yes bagpipes are. Galician tradition too!
Raining very heavily now
So we will decide later about going out! Not many pilgrims today!
has to do with octopus is a bit beyond me but I’m sure I’ll find out. Tonight we went to mass in the cathedral which is stunning.. no pictures allowed but believe me the wood-carved seats and paintings are wonderful. I was able to follow the service pretty well in site if not having been to à Catholic mass.
This is a stock photo
Im à bit scrupulous about not taking pics when I shouldn’t.
Outside the streets were packed with
With dogs, baby carriages, grandparents and even a demonstration.
One issue was Palestine and another housingAfter church
the streets were alight with beautiful decorations
San Diego, my favorite
We picked up material from the tourist office today and must plan our activities. Lucky thing the numbers of pilgrims is dwindling!
Lugo, à town in Galicia has a completely intact Roman wall that surrounds the old city. As you can see in the background, graffiti is present here two, both decorative and political.
The owners of à stall selling
T-shirts should give a good number of treats to this old boy! We certainly shopped there because we had passed by to pet him a few times.
Chestnut trees
Along the wall and to my surprise, I was presented by a French pilgrim,with this strange seed pod which turns out to come from à Southern Magnolia tree!
Southern Magnilia
Things are very simple in the pilgrim inn. My partner and I make sure everyone is out by 8 am, disappear ourselves until 1 pm and take over “ welcome duties” of cold lemon water and Canadian pins until about 3 or 4.
Lovely weather and interesting pilgrims- one from Montreal and another from Tonypandy just up the valleys from my own birthplace! Small world
Della always wants to pull ahead so she will be overjoyed to see her mistress who lets her off the leash on her walks. I am reluctant to do that as losing either of my charges would be a nightmare!
Dora always follows Della!
Sometimes I remember my childhood ballet lessons when their extended leashes get crossed.
The animals woke me up very early this morning. I wonder if they had an intuition that their master and mistress were coming home?
This is my favorite neighborhood cow.
She has a rather sweet tinkling bell and she always turns to gaze quietly when I pass by.
My favorite pony changed pasture
and his master came to feed him something besides grass. He galloped up to the fence. This gentleman also owns the flock of geese higher up and it seems he travels on a motorcycle to feed everyone. He’s braver than I am to enter a field of large, presumably hungry geese. I guess they know what’s good for them though.
My last day here. Off to Lugo tomorrow for more adventures.
Into the city we go!
Aren’t you glad I discovered the photo library. I’ll tell you if it lives up to this image.
Today some very kind friends of my hosts here took me “out for coffee.”
What that really meant was à three hour excursion that, yes included coffee and delicious walnut cake, but was actually a tour of some beautiful areas surrounding where I am staying.
Penny and me
Her kind husband Ron took the picture and drove us to such lovely sights! By the time we came back our route was like a tangled ball of wool in my mind. Roundabouts are à frequent feature of the secondary roads around here. I fear it would take me a long time to figure out how to get home if I was driving!
More stunning parts of the coast
I was treated to the sights of à special type of mansion built in the “ Indian “. style. These are homes built by Asturias who went to the West Indies in the 19 th Century and came back with enough money to build very impressive homes. The palm trees we see around these places are not native to the area but we’re planted as status symbols and somehow have flourished.
When I got home, two very excited doggies were eager to go for their postponed walk. By then, at 2 pm it was quite hot so we did not go as far as usual. The girls were happy to flop and snooze however and I got some writing done. But for the kindness of Penny and Ron I would not have seen more of this lovely coast.
I will admit to only one serious frustration at this point. There are lots of Magpies around but I seem unable to get a picture of one! I think they are the most elegant of birds and I like their cheek. Well, perhaps tomorrow!
Dora and Pitou snoozingThat’s what I want!
This is the first time I’ve ever used à “ free image” in my blog. Always something to learn!
As I was admiring this from a shady spot a gentleman came up and asked me directions! I did what I could but, sir, I’ve only been “ in town” for a week. Then on my way home I bumped into him again.
“Ah, I turned off too soon.”
No sooner had he gone on his way than an older couple ( the woman was on crutches) asked me the way to the lookout. That I knew and sent them off. Third request from à man in a car with his family also looking for the lookout. I think he was a German but no sooner did I start speaking to him in Spanish than he switched to English.
When I got home Dora decided to reward me with a few kisses.
See her holding my arm down!
No, I insist, says Dora.
While they were snoozing after their walk I went to the store to get yoghurt and look what I saw in my way!
Passion flower!
Apparently the Spanish missionaries used these flowers to teach South Americans about Christ’s passion. The number of stamens and pistels represented the nails and the wounds of the crucifix toon. So it’s named for that passion…. Not the Hollywood variety.
That’s the translation of the Greek name of this flower and I’m sure she would be charmed with such jewels
Don’t know the name of this beautiful plant
but it grows high and seems to be a favourite of bees!
Still enjoying rosesAnd azalea
And the pets are basking in the sun.
I took the doggies for an early walk
As some kind friends of my hosts invited me for lunch and a quick stop at the supermarket for bread and fruit.
LOOKING AT THE VILLAGE
The houses are beautiful and quite far apart so it doesn’t quite feel like what I consider à “ village”.
Sights like this huge pig
bring me back to earth though.
Traditional storage sheds for corn
I had seen these in the neighbouring province of Galicia but was a bit surprised to see them here too. The idea is to store the corn and grain up where rodent’s can’t get them. a few curious sheep on the way home
convinced me that it really is a village …. With a view!
I found a new footpath and decided to follow it. Managing two dogs on extendable leads is not always easy and Della, who is younger and more enthusiastic tends to “ change sides” requiring a stop now and then to straighten things out.
Down to the beach
It is all very well to go down but that eventually requires coming up and I took pity on Dora, who is older and not in such great shape. The doggies certainly were sleepy after their longish walk but I think with a bit of planning we may just make it tomorrow.
Someone thought of tired walkers
These benches are all over the village and can be quite welcome! It seems à retired carpenter took this on as a project and it is typical of the kind spirit around here
We met these two lovely boys yesterday too. Although it was threatening rain my girls still wanted their walk. We managed to get the four leashes all tangled up. I still keep them on the extendable leash. After all, we’ve only been friends for a couple of days. It seems Dora is a keen hunter and any scent of a mole sets her off.
Who says purple and yellow
don’t match? There are still a lot of beautiful flowers out here in the village.
Datura? Not quite sure of the name
And here with a nod to the Brits
Holly
The fur babies certainly have warmed up to me.
Last night Dora
Decided she would like to sleep on my bed and I didn’t have the heart to send her away.
This afternoon Pitou who always looks so aristocratic was meowing very insistently. He had food. He had water. What did he want? I soon found out when I sat down after doing the dishes and he immediately jumped up on my lap for a cuddle. Silly human!
Behind this cool exterior
lurks a cuddle bundle.
But when it’s time for dinner
things get serious! Once Pitou sets up his demands for dinner everyone shows up and fixes me with a piercing stare.
The weekend is upon us and the weather forecast looks good. What adventures await, I wonder?
but I am just being dog walker for these two darlings, Della ( big one) and Dora. It was cloudy and threatening rain in the morning so when it cleared up I thought to go for instant coffee at the village shop. Lucky I looked at the website.. closed ftom 2 to 5 so I will go later when the girls are sleeping
Della and Dora
What a lovely unspoiled place this is and people are very friendly. I already have two ladies who want to walk with me
Another friend en routeGeese are not friendly
so I kept à wide berth.
Mr rooster was statelyAnd this guy
Positively fawned all over us while the house cat looked on in utter scorn
The two dogs I am minding stayed on leash today as they barely know me but I hope to be able to let Della off tomorrow. She is the one who at least comes back when called!
Pitou
The Prince likes his seating co-ordinated. He is part Siamese and at exactly 7 pm starts yowling for food. Tomorrow in the afternoon when all fur babies are asleep I will explore the village a little.
Obviously hasn’t fallen very much on this plain. This is in the province of Leon where fields of wheat and sunflowers have been baking for weeks. A few hundred miles and a few very long tunnels later and I arrived in Asturias, à province in the north of the country.
This fishing village/Camino stop
Is on the Bay of Biscay. It is surrounded by green forests that top cliffs carved out into charming little ports like this one.
I’m not just here as a tourist
but as care-giver to these charmers
Two darling doggies ( here’s Deella)and three catsDoraYes, two are black cats
I love animals and although for various reasons I can’t keep any right now, taking care if these darlings while their owners, Carol and Allen go off on holiday is great fun.
The river flows to the sea
and Della goes for a paddle. There are very few tourists and I have been shown around the village so I’m almost ready to unhook the leads and settle down for evening cuddles.
My kind hosts took me out for lunch today and I once again got acquainted with delicious tortilla and vino tinto.
Nary a tourist to be seen
It was a lovely day and I look forward to long walks with the dogs on the spectacular cliff tops near by.
The village is charming and the people very welcoming. Fingers crossed for good weather.
to see Betty’s crown. While I was on Vancouver Island recently I had time to enjoy time with this Pacific Broad-Leaf Maple who. Grows in my daughter’s garden. We named her Betty a few years ago in honor of my late mother.
The human Betty
was not mighty or statuesque but she had great dignity and spread her arms wide.
I don’t know why this moss-clad matriarch
reminds my daughter and I so much of my mother but Betty she is and so shall remain.
Even here
far from her birthplace she may be providing a home… for someone.
We visited a great market today and picket up lots of veggies -even some Okanagan Valley peaches and local strawberries.
PeppersSquash like works of art
The whole market was a joy! Veggies for the next couple of days before I leave. Costco who needs you!
Then we went for a little hike at Seal Bay
Seal Bay is protected by a forest monster but he let us continue along the sandy path.
Just bow and go on your way
Our usual path down to the sea was fenced off due to “ unstable pathways “ Liz was all set to duck through the fence but I for once I was the voice of caution – I do have another trip planned and couldn’t imagine hobbling around Spain with a cast on my leg!
À sunlit path
Led to a very, very steep pathway lined with some of the most beautiful trees I have ever seen
Look up! Look waaay up!
It was blissfully quiet and thanks to hiking poles we both made it down to the shore in one piece.
À well- deserved rest
And then the climb back up. The ferns are truly spectacular and seem to have benefited from the rain we had yesterday
Just as summer has drawn in, so my trip to visit my dear daughter is almost over.
It was showery today and my usual walk down by the sea was interrupted by a downpour. Later the sun broke through and I decided to walk around the neighbourhood. Another sign that fall is here are the many colourful Rowan trees… some of my favourites
In fact, the hero of an as yet unpublished novel I wrote years ago is called Rowan.
The rainbow mirrored my mood
I am a little sad that soon I will leave but this rainbow reminded me that the sun, and optimism work wonders.
To my surprise I met an old friend as I wandered around a few streets over.
This darling ran away
and ended up at my daughter’s place several years ago. We put out a “ neighbourhood watch” notice and his master came and got him.
He gave me such a soulful and sweet look today that I feel sure he remembered me. Friends already!
Here we are, Liz and I, on a few days’ vacation, staying at a lovely place called the Seahorse. It is close to the ferry dock so we found it quite easily yesterday. The hostess, who made this lovely driftwood sculpture, told us that when she was on the ferry over, the captain stopped the vessel and backed up a little because there were orca whales ahead. That reminded me of a conversation I had long ago with my granddaughter. I was saying something to her about my homeland, Wales, and she looked up, astonished and said,” The whales have their own country,Granny?” If they do it is perhaps Quadra island.
Speaking of descendants, when we walked on forest trails, I could not help be struck by life springing from decay.
On our lovely walk
In à National Park
The spit refers to the spit of land
It’s not only old trees that regenerate new life I guess.
Elizabeth leading the way
As we were leaving the park, a raven called his special call as if to usher us out. À special morning indeed!!
with this much driftwood, you’re bound to run into someone who catches your eye.
Like this old pal
I never noticed he had a sidekick right under his beak!
Here puss, puss!
She didn’t even turn around.
No better luck with this pup either Now the wolf brothers
I left strictly alone.
This guy is always waiting for me
At the bench where I take a rest. Not a talkative chap but I feel he’s keeping an eye on me.
Maybe I should just be thankful for
the last rose of summer – and yummy blackberries. And if I need a more lively companion, well, there’s always this Mr Green who crossed my path! Lovely walk today!
This picture is taken from a spot where my daughter often stops to “ calm down” and I can see why. We tried sitting on a bench but we were not dressed for the cold wind off the sea. Maybe you can see a black spot on the shore which is, in fact, an intrepid soul who is dressed in a wet suit. She plunged into the waves and was then followed by a companion dressed only in bathing trunks. Brrr..
The view the other way
The sky was very beautiful yesterday and we even had a couple of showers of huge raindrops. Garden watering continues for “ the last rose of summer”
It has a dreamy scent
I wonder if anyone knows what this strange pinecone is? A fitting end to my walk yesterday was this different looking and beautiful thing.
