Talk to me, Baby

Find that dime, that quarter, that dollar, that card

Find the time, find the words.

Find the sea song that sends the sigh

over the waves

on the white wings of gulls.

Let me hear your breath, soft with a faint rasp

like the ripple of a wave that drags down pebbles.

Press the receiver to your shell ear.

Hear me lick my lips, draw in my breath

whisper ” Hello” before the goodbye.

Do I Have To?

  Spanish hunters buy these birds to use as live lures for wild partridge. We saw lots of them in clean, well-watered cages today. It seemed a kind of mean way to fool the birds. I know, we use duck decoys and moose calls to fool game into getting shot but this seems particularly gruesome to me. There were about thirty birds priced anywhere from €3 to €6 depending on the type of bird . ( They all looked the same to me) 

I could only imagine the procedure in the field as the captive bird calls and his wild brothers and sisters approach. What happens to him at the end  of hunting season, I wonder?

Carnival in Cartagena


We spent a few days visiting this ancient city recently. Yes, it’s named after Carthage in North Africa and it has a marvellous ruin of a Roman theatre  Last weekend was carnival weekend and I was astonished to see the energy and sheer number of people engaged in the carnival parade. There were a lot of very scantily clad ladies with huge feather headdresses but—seen one, you’ve seen ’em all! I was more interested in the political side of things. Spain is in the midst of a debate about the remains of Fransisco Franco, the general who ruled Spain from 1939 until his death in 1975. I am learning a lot about the Spanish Civil War and also about Franco …..I’m not getting into it! OK? A vote in the parliament last year approved the exhumation of his remains. Not so fast, where will he be buried then? The grandchildren of Franco oppose the move and propose that their ancestor be buried in the Cathedral of Madrid. The Government fear that such a move would encourage veneration of Franco so they refuse this alternative. The government even appealed to the Vatican to help decide where he should be reburied. That’s why the pope appears in the carnival float. This topic has been a hot issue for several years and so…. the float.

Despite this note of political turmoil, the rest of the parade was a joyful muddle of diverse themes. Hawaiians, showgirls, Chinese, Indian, Arabian, Mexican – all dancing along to infectious Brazilian carnival music! My favorite was a two year old dressed as a bee. She insisted that she must march in the parade. Over and over again, her dad marched her up and down 40 feet beside the parade route.  On the walk up she sulked. On the way down she beamed. To me, that’s the spirit of Carnival. Humor a bee! Why not?

You can take the boy out of the country…

This is how a garden is made! Jump over the fence behind the apartment we are renting, scrape with a borrowed rake, run for bags of earth, pepper plants, artichokes, lettuce, onions, broccoli, strawberries(!) hack with a hand pick and add to the pile of stones at the base of a slope bordering this empty lot. Now, plant…..muttering curses that it is very late to plant potatoes…….in they go just the same. 

Now every morning the plot is watered and we wait and watch. It is February after all.

The price of tomatos

 Hell or purgatory. Choose! I suppose purgatory at least holds out some hope no matter how faint. 

These are the shacks of workers who tend vegetables in the plastic greenhouses close to where we are spending some time this winter on the south coast of Spain. Huge swaths of the province of Andalusia have been swallowed up by these enormous agricultural enterprises. How much? Well, you can see the development from space!

The workers are Morroccans, sub-Saharan Africans and  a sprinkling of Eastern Europeans. Many of them go to work on bicycles. Some live in apartments in the small communities around the growing areas and many live in shanty towns made of lathe and plastic weighted down with stones. We have been told:

” They steal electricity for their shacks. ” 

” They have cell phones. Some even have cars.”

” It’s better here than where they came from.”

” They send all their money back to their countries.” 

Last week, driving to town to  we were horrified to see that some of the shacks had been burned down. To my initial consternation, Joe suddenly stopped the car, jumped out and began to talk to a man who was dragging together a few sticks with a view to ” rebuilding” I supposed. He told Joe that someone had been cooking with bottled gas and due to the high winds that have been prevalent lately, a fire broke out and quickly spread. Of course, there was no water supply to control the fire. Miraculously no one was killed and those who sustained injuries were treated in hospital. It seems workers in the ” plasticos” are entitled to medical treatment in Spain. 

That benevolence reminded me of 19 th century coal companies that offered a ” dispensary” to workers, many of whom died of black lung or ” retired” with no pension after suffering mine accidents. 

Joe has an intense interest in others. Sometimes my legacy of British reserve calls it “being inquisitive” but in this case I admired him. The worker wanted to talk to Joe, to answer questions about what had happened. Joe recognized him not as “one of them” as ” the other” but as a person who had suffered a great misfortune and who had a right to tell his story. If I was cowardly and stayed sitting in the car, I owe it to that man at least to write this. 

Is this the price of cheap vegetables and fruit in Northern Europe? If the home countries of the workers are hell… this not purgatory? Today it very windy and there are many white-capped waves on the sea between Spain and North Africa. Stay a few days yet in hell. Purgatory will wait.

Hunting almonds, finding citrus



IMG_7558This is almond blossom time in Andalusia. How beautiful it is to see the pink or white blossoms appear on bare stems. Even before leaves appear the flowers burst forth in a calculated gamble to get fertilized. That’s what it’s all about in nature, after all! Since insects are starving for pollen and very little else is flowering, the almonds are mobbed by bees and wasps. The only drawback is that one really cold night can ruin the blossoms and destroy the harvest that year. There’s a Greek folksong that mirrors the gamble of declaring your love too soon and getting burned. It was the inspiration for a poem I wrote a long time ago.

We had tremendous wind for two days and I wondered if the almond blossoms had survived. Last year we found a beautiful village, Lucainena de las Torres, less than hour’s drive from the coast where we are staying.  There was a stunning orchard of almond blossoms outside the village. We decided to go back to see how showy the trees were this year. This year we approached the village by a reasonable road. In 2018 we persevered along 18 km of hairpin bends with two or three places to pass an oncoming vehicle. There were no guardrails in spite of spectacular gorges that yawned on the passenger (my) side. Of course we met no one on our way as all the locals studiously avoid the mountain road and take the “highway”. We had no way of knowing that until we tottered into a bar in the village seeking a shot of brandy to restore our shredded nerves. Some very nice English people told us about the alternative road but it was cold comfort after having inched along for what felt like an eternity expecting a truck to confront us at any moment.

Because we took a different road this week we did not see the massed almond trees but in the village we had a lovely surprise. Have you ever noticed how village dogs bark most viciously? As we were climbing the steep hill to one of the town sights, a “Lavatorio” or public wash-house complete with covered troughs of water and scrubbing boards, a couple of dogs set up a ferocious barking. We scuttled past one, snarling away behind a link fence and then to my alarm the owner of the other opened the gate and out came a fairly large dog who really did not seem “encantada” to see us. His mistress turned out to be a most charming English woman who kindly invited us in to see her garden. By this time doggie had settled down. Turns out she was a rescue dog. As always, fear and anxiety make us bark!

Joe, who is a great gardener didn’t need to be asked twice. One very beautiful and interesting old tree was the citrus shown in the picture. You can see that it is an orange that has had a lemon grafted onto it many years ago. This means that the tree produces both fruits. Winter is time for oranges, tangerines and lemons and the tree was quite laden down. We had a a chat about gardens and about living in Spain. Although Brexit looms like a dark cloud I  believe  the considerable number of Brits who live in this rather obscure village will manage to stay somehow. Successful grafts, thriving and producing good fruit

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(the Almond poem is in it)

The World is Round, so Brothers Let us Travel


This is the motto of the guild of two young tradesmen we met today in San Jose. It is a very quiet town in winter but fate seems to put new and fascinating things in our path all the time.

img_7532Have you ever heard of the German tradition of craftsmen walking around the world for two years and a day after their apprenticeship? Well, today we met two young men embarked on just such a practice right here in this little town during the “dead” season.

As we were settling down for an afternoon coffee after a bracing walk along the promenade in gale force wind, two odd-looking fellows wandered across the square. Everyone in the café was wondering who on earth these young men dressed like old-fashioned chimney sweeps could be. Everyone wondered…but only Joe jumped up and went over to strike up a conversation with them.

In a few moments they were sitting down at our table “invited” for whatever they would like to drink. What a wonderful thing it is to learn something completely new – to talk to people living an experience totally novel and intriguing to me.

I had never heard of this practice which started in the Middle Ages requiring newly qualified tradespeople (ours were carpenters) to travel around for two or three years – – and a day— just like in the fairy tales. In the old days young tradesmen would go from town to town helping to build great cathedrals and learning new skills from other masters. The custom was banned by the Nazis – fascists always have to spoil things! – and it has only come back into favour since the 1980’s. Now it is a voluntary exercise but it is growing in popularity. As it is, there are only about 600 to 800 people doing this so really what were the chances we would meet these two?

The practice is called the “walz” and there is some evidence that the Australian song “Waltzing Matilda” is based on this practice. The “Matilda” is, in fact, the cloth-wrapped bundle the craftsmen carry.

The young men, who spoke pretty good English, soon made it clear that there were quite strict rules about “the walk”. They must register with the town authorities where they visit. They had little hard-cover books with stamps and comments from town halls in England, Scotland, Ireland, France and Spain. They must wear their distinctive dress so as not to be mistaken for hobos or tramps. They leave home with very little money and must return with the same amount. Our new friends, Simon and Paul, told us they avoid topics like religion and politics and that their behavior must always reflect well on their guild. They did not give me permission to put their pictures in my blog. I always ask! However, these pictures were stock photos in the public domain and I wanted you to see what they were wearing. They did give me permission to publish a picture of  one of their hand-carved staffs!

They told us tales of sleeping in the open, in empty castles and the homes of kind strangers. The principle of the walk is that craftsmen must pay for food and accommodation with their skilled work. They hitch-hike from place to place and only take busses or trains when they are really stuck. These days women journeymen (get it!) also go on the “Walz”. I was absolutely fascinated by this custom and so grateful to these youngsters who patiently answered our questions. Just when you think you’ve heard it all…… If you want to learn more, Buzzfeed has a great article as does wikipedia.

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